Clemmie Recs: 48 Hours in Dublin
A trip to the motherland with father dearest.
Is there anything more insufferable than Australians trying to lay claim to Irish heritage? The answer is yes, Americans.
As the surname Donohoe gives away, my dad’s side of the family is from the Emerald Isle. I have had my hot little hands on an Irish passport since 2019, which is not only extremely smug water cooler chat (‘did you know it’s the most powerful passport in the world?’), it has made my move to London both cheap and pain-free.
Although I can never run for parliament in Australia (RIP MP Clemmie), being a dual citizen has been a great source of pride. Shamefully, I had never actually stepped foot in the motherland. My dad, fresh from his 24-hour flight from Australia, was keen to change that. After a few delays and mini bottles of prosecco, we set off from London City Airport for a weekend away in the capital.
Let’s be honest, trad Irish food like stew and soda bread doesn’t exactly scream sexy, however, Dublin’s new-wave of restaurants and bars floored me. In true Irish style, the weekend’s weather was shite, the craic was great and the food scene exceeded expectations.
Eat & drink:
@bambino_dublin / bambino.ie $
The best thin crust pizza in town. Don’t let the line discourage you, it moves quickly so you can perch on a bench outside and enjoy one of the few different slices on offer. The merch is always a good idea too, I’m now a proud owner of a Bambino T-shirt.
@thefumbally / thefumbally.ie $
A spacious and sun-drenched café serving up a concise breakfast menu and great coffee. They also have a grocery section to pick up good-quality provisions, and host many community events, including the fab storytelling nights by Seanchoíche.
📍Host
@host.restaurant / hostrestaurant.ie $$$
A modern Italian neighbourhood restaurant in Ranelagh. Expect fresh plates of pasta, quality cuts of meat and a healthy excess of burrata. Shout-outs to the team for letting us dine extremely late post-flight delay.
@franksdublin / franksdublin.com $$
When the rain began to hit, Frank’s wine bar on Camden St was the perfect, cosy respite. A small, walk-in only joint with an unmissable red awning, the concise snacky menu pairs perfectly with whatever vinos are being slung that week.
@unomasdublin / unomas.ie $$$
The standout meal from the weekend. Once your flights and accom are booked, the next step will be trying to snag a table at Uno Mas. Dishes are centred around Spanish cuisine but borrow from further-flung places like Japan and Mexico. The service is top tier too, making it a very special night.
@odonoghuespub / odonoghues.ie $
Had to do it to ‘em. Not only a great place to send a pic to the family WhatsApp, but one of the best Irish creams poured in town.
@nomo_ramen / nomoramen.ie $$
A lovely walk-in joint if you are craving something warm and nourishing to counteract the chill outside.
Do:
@homeofguinness / guinness-storehouse.com
Yeah, whatever it’s touristy and cringe, but it’s the good type of touristy and cringe. Even the gift shop is one you are genuinely excited to exit via. Make sure you book ahead (I’d opt for a late morning booking so you can enjoy your pre-lunch Guinness in full force), and pay the extra fee to have your face lasered onto the head of the pint. Lol.
@opwireland / kilmainhamgaolmuseum.ie
A former prison home to many Irish revolutionaries, the guided tour of Kilmainham Gaol is a harrowing yet fascinating one. On the lighter side, the gaol was the backdrop for The Italian Job, Babe, and the greatest cinematic masterpiece of our generation, Paddington 2.